The artisan rests his head against stacked rolls of antique rugs

Turkish, Hereke & Persian Rugs · A documentary in seven chapters One knot.
A thousand years.

How a simple loop of wool, tied around two threads, became the art of Anatolia, Persia and the Turkmen steppe, and how to read it in the pieces you collect.

Begin
Chapter I

The knot, and the two ways to tie it

The oldest pile carpet we know, found frozen in a Scythian tomb at Pazyryk in the Altai mountains, is around two and a half thousand years old. Its weavers tied the same knot ours tie today.

A hand-knotted rug is built on a loom strung with vertical warp threads. Row by row, the weaver ties short lengths of yarn around pairs of warps, cuts them to form the pile, then beats down horizontal weft threads to lock the row in place. How the yarn wraps those two warps is the first thing a specialist looks for.

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Reading the pile face

Each coloured dot is one knot. Count them across an inch and down an inch, multiply, and you have the knot density: the single best measure of how finely a design can be drawn.

Why density matters

A village rug might carry under a hundred knots per square inch. The finest silk workshop pieces exceed several hundred, enough to render a face, a petal, a fold of satin.

This map

A knot-by-knot rendering based on a silk piece in our archive. Zoom in until the individual knots separate.

Chapter II Türkiye

Kayseri and the Anatolian plateau

Anatolia has been knotting carpets since the Seljuk sultans; fragments from the thirteenth century survive from the Alaeddin Mosque in Konya.

The artisan rests among stacks of Anatolian kilims and rugs

Kayseri, ancient Caesarea at the foot of Mount Erciyes, sat on the caravan roads that crossed Cappadocia. The Seljuk caravanserai of Sultan Han still stands outside the city. Trade brought silk, and Kayseri's workshops became famous for it: finely knotted silk rugs and prayer rugs with mihrab arches, floral borders and a soft, luminous palette. The neighbouring town of Bünyan gave its name to a celebrated group of Kayseri-area rugs.

Kayseri also wove fine wool and, from the twentieth century, mercerised cotton, sometimes sold as "art silk". A knowledgeable dealer will always tell you which you are looking at. We do.

Our own Kayseri silks come from this tradition: pure silk, tied with the Turkish knot at ten knots by ten in every square centimetre, the fineness the trade calls a 10'luk. See the Kayseri silks.

Elsewhere on the plateau, village and town traditions such as Uşak, Konya, Milas and Bergama produced bold geometric wool rugs, while the imperial workshops at Hereke wove silk of extraordinary fineness for the Ottoman palaces.

Knot
Symmetrical (Turkish)
Materials
Wool on wool; silk in Kayseri & Hereke
Drawing
Geometric to floral; prayer niches
Palette
Madder red, indigo, apricot, ivory
Chapter III Türkiye · The Imperial Workshop

Hereke: silk for the sultans

On the shore of the Gulf of İzmit, east of Istanbul, the Ottoman court built a workshop whose name became shorthand for the finest silk rug a Turkish loom can make.

1843Imperial factory founded under Sultan Abdülmecid I
c. 1891Carpet looms added in the reign of Abdülhamid II
100+Knots per cm² in classic silk Hereke, about 645 per square inch
Silk on silkSilk pile tied on a silk foundation with the symmetrical Turkish knot
Close study of individual silk knots

At Hereke densities, a single square centimetre holds a hundred knots or more.

A palace workshop

The factory, the Hereke Fabrika-i Hümayunu, was founded in 1843 to weave silk fabrics and upholstery for the new palaces of the Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe among them. Carpet weaving followed late in the century, when master weavers were brought in from Anatolia's established weaving centres. Their rugs furnished the imperial residences and were presented as diplomatic gifts.

The finest knot in Türkiye

Classic Hereke silk carries around ten knots by ten in every square centimetre, and the most ambitious pieces are said to reach far beyond. At that scale a weaver can draw like a miniaturist: palmettes, cloud bands, prayer arches and garden medallions adapted from Ottoman court and Safavid designs, in ivory, gold, soft reds and pale blues. Some pieces are brocaded with metal-wrapped thread that catches the light.

A name worth checking

"Hereke" is now also used as a style name, and many silk rugs carry it without ever having been woven there. Workshop pieces often bear a woven Hereke signature in the border, though a signature alone proves little. When we offer a silk piece, we tell you plainly where and how it was made. Our Hereke silks are knotted ten by ten in every centimetre. See the Hereke silks.

Knot
Symmetrical (Turkish)
Materials
Silk on silk; some metal thread
Drawing
Ottoman court, prayer & medallion
Palette
Ivory, gold, soft red, pale blue
Chapter IV Iran

Persia and the city workshop

Under the Safavid shahs of the sixteenth century, carpet weaving became a court art. The Ardabil carpet, completed in 1539–40, is still one of the most admired objects of the Islamic world.

A framed Persian miniature-style silk rug from the Professio collection

The Poet's Chamber, from our collection, in the miniature tradition.

Persian city rugs begin not on the loom but on paper. A designer draws the composition on a graph cartoon, the naqsheh, where every square is one knot. Weavers follow it with astonishing precision, which is why Persian rugs are known for flowing arabesques, central medallions, vines, palmettes and garden imagery.

The great centres each have a signature: Tabriz for its range and its pictorial work, Isfahan and Nain for very fine wool-and-silk, Kashan for classical medallions, Qom for pure silk. Most use the asymmetrical knot, though Tabriz and many north-western weavers tie the symmetrical one.

Knot
Mostly asymmetrical (Persian)
Materials
Kork wool, silk, cotton foundation
Drawing
Curvilinear, medallion, garden
Palette
Navy, crimson, ivory, celadon
Chapter V Central Asia

The Turkmen and the gul

For the nomadic Turkmen tribes, a rug was furniture, architecture and identity at once: tent bags, door hangings, animal trappings, and floor rugs carried from pasture to pasture.

Deep red tribal rugs in the Professio archive

The heart of Turkmen design is the gul (göl): an octagonal emblem repeated in rows across a deep madder-red field. Each tribe had its own. The Tekke, Yomut, Salor, Saryk and Ersari guls can be told apart by a trained eye, the way a family crest is read.

Turkmen weaving is tight, low-piled and lustrous, built on wool from fat-tailed sheep. Many groups, the Tekke and Salor among them, tied an asymmetrical knot open to the left; the Yomut often used the symmetrical. In the market these rugs travelled under the trade name "Bokhara", after the city through which they were sold.

Knot
Asymmetrical, often open left
Materials
Lustrous wool; silk accents
Drawing
Repeating guls, strict geometry
Palette
Madder red to aubergine, ivory, indigo
Chapter VI The Professio speciality

The pictorial rug: painting with knots

When knots grow small enough, a rug stops being a pattern and becomes a picture. This is the tradition at the heart of our collection.

Pictorial rugs, sometimes called tableau rugs, translate paintings and miniatures into wool and silk. Workshops in Tabriz are especially renowned for them, and every wall carpet in our collection comes from Tabriz. A single figure may require hundreds of graded shades; the lustre of silk is reserved for skin, satin and light. Subjects range from European salon scenes and landscapes to Persian miniatures in the manner of the Isfahan school and sacred narratives.

See the Tabriz wall carpets
The Grey Mare, pictorial rug
The Duet, pictorial rug
Still Life with Peonies, pictorial rug
Chapter VII

Side by side

A collector's quick reference. Every region has exceptions; these are the tendencies a specialist looks for first.

Kayseri, Cappadocia & AnatoliaPersian cityTurkmenPictorial
KnotSymmetricalMostly asymmetricalAsymmetrical (open left) or symmetrical by tribeVery fine, either type
Typical density~60–150 kpsi in wool; far higher in Kayseri & Hereke silk~120–400+ kpsi; Qom silk higher still~100–300 kpsiOften several hundred kpsi
FoundationWool, or cotton in workshopsCotton or silkWool, goat hairCotton or silk
DesignGeometric village drawing; floral and prayer designs in KayseriCurvilinear medallions, vines, gardensRepeating guls in rowsFigurative scenes and landscapes
Design sourceMemory and tradition, workshop cartoonsDesigner's graph cartoon (naqsheh)Tribal memoryPainting or miniature, charted knot by knot
PaletteMadder, indigo, apricot, ivoryNavy, crimson, ivory, celadonMadder to aubergineHundreds of graded shades
Best forLiving floors, warm interiorsFormal rooms, classical interiorsStudies, libraries, collectorsWalls, galleries, statement rooms
Films

Stories of the loom

Short documentaries from the archive and the workshops we work with.

The Archive

Professio · Coming soon

From Fleece to Fibre

Coming soon

A Thousand Shades

Coming soon
Continue

Now that you can read the knot, find the piece that speaks to you.